Original article published on allenbrothers.com.
The concept of aging steak might conjure up images of a T-bone long forgotten in your refrigerator drawer, but old steaks and well-aged steaks are two completely different things.
There are two ways to age beef, and each approach has its appeal. Before you host your next dinner party or fire up the barbie, check out this guide to wet-aging and dry-aging steak to see how the two aging methods differ, the kind of meat aging creates, and why you might just learn to fall in love with both.
What is the Purpose of Aging Beef?
Fresh isn’t always best. It’s a hard concept to wrap your head around. The idea that fresh meat could be less appetizing than meat that’s been waiting around for weeks or even months is kind of mind-blowing, but there’s science at work here.
Aging beef helps meat develop a deeper, more intense flavor. It also tenderizes the meat by breaking down the muscle fibers. While the exact methodology differs depending on the type of aging (wet vs. dry, mostly), the goal is the same: creating a steak that’s infinitely more delicious.
“But why doesn’t the meat rot?” That’s a common and excellent question. After all, we’re taught our entire lives to put food in the fridge and throw out anything that’s past its expiration date. You can’t just leave a steak in your fridge for a few months and expect it to be tasty once you get around to tossing it on the grill. That’s because you’re not keeping your meat under ideal conditions.
Aging is best left to professionals who have the equipment, facilities, and manpower to ensure the aging steak is always kept at the proper temperature and surrounded by the perfect amount of humidity. It’s possible to age beef at home, but one misstep can lead to very unfortunate consequences ranging from loss of expensive meat to a terribly upset stomach.
While the terminology leaves a lot to be desired, the truth is that the process of aging beef is in fact “controlled rot.” Much in the same way fine wine or parmesan cheese can be cellared for decades or several years, respectively, steak is aged to bring out its best characteristics and create a better experience for the end user. Overseen by experts, aging can result in some of the best beef you’ll ever experience.
Pro tip: Combine that dry-aged steak, vintage wine, and a hunk of that two-year-old parm and you’ll have a very nice meal indeed.
Different Aging Processes
So, how is beef aged? There are two popular aging methods: dry aging and wet aging. Both have their pros and their cons, and in the end, deciding which method to use is largely a matter of taste.
For meat purveyors interested in aging steak, choosing which aged meat process to follow depends on the type of beef on hand, what type of flavor they’re going for, and who’s buying the end product. Some producers age according to customer specs — for instance, top-tier steakhouses often have contracts with producers or butchers that dictate everything from the type of aging beef will undergo to how long the beef will be aged.
It’s increasingly common to see both dry-aged and wet-aged beef offered side by side in the same catalog or on the same menu. Understanding what goes into each method will help you choose the steak best suited to your appetite, recipe, and/or guests.
Dry-aged Beef
The process used to create dry-aged beef looks much different from the process for wet-aged beef. For starters, beef isn’t vacuum packed or wrapped in any way. Instead, steaks are purposefully left exposed to the air so that oxygen can feed aerobic bacteria already present and active within the meat. That bacteria spurs the meat’s enzymes into action, breaking down the molecular bonds that hold protein fibers so tightly together.
Dry aging is usually done in an aging room dedicated to that specific purpose, with temperature and humidity strictly controlled. The meat is left bare or wrapped in a layer of cheesecloth and then either hung or put on racks with holes or slats underneath to allow for 360-degree airflow. For first-time observers, the room can be a bit intimidating, as the beef slowly develops a layer of “good mold” as it ages. Racks upon racks of moldy beef can look… strange… but it’s really meat science and nature working together toward an extremely delectable goal.
As for the mold itself, don’t worry — that outer layer is trimmed away before the beef is prepped for commercial or retail sale. Another thing dry-age beef loses pre-cook is weight. Because dry-aged beef is left exposed, some of the meat’s natural moisture evaporates. This concentrates the flavor in the remaining tissue and results in a somewhat smaller steak as well.
Appearance: Dry-aged steaks look paler than wet-aged steaks, often trading in bold red coloring for meat with a brownish hue, and may look dry or compact due to moisture evaporation. These cuts of beef have a very distinct aroma that’s intensely savory and rich. Don’t be surprised if you give your freshly unwrapped package a whiff and find yourself going back for second, third, and even fourth tries because the smell is so utterly compelling.
Taste: Dry-aged beef is often described as being beefy, nutty, and a little funky. Some believe it to be an acquired taste in the same way people learn to love the funk of an earthy Pinot Noir or the slight stink of really good blue cheese. The intensity of flavor in dry-aged beef can be attributed to changes at the molecular level. Dry-aging affects the beef’s proteins, causing large molecules of glycogen, RNA, and DNA to break down into smaller molecules that have their own innate taste profiles. Some are savory, some are a little bitter, and some are even a little sweet. And therein lies the complexity.
Tenderness: Dry-aged beef is even more tender than already succulent wet-aged beef. There’s also a distinct, soft-yet-structured mouthfeel to dry-aged steaks thanks to the more advanced breakdown of the meat’s musculature.
Aging time: Dry aging is part science, part art form, so the ideal length of time for optimal aging can run anywhere from a couple of weeks to two or even three months. The longer dry-aged meat sits, the funkier and more complex it will be. Many restaurants offer the same cut in a range of dry ages, such as bone-in ribeyes aged 20, 30, and 45 days. Each version offers a different sensory experience worth trying at least once as you figure out what your palate prefers.
Pro tip: It doesn’t take a master chef or an experienced butcher to tell the difference between a dry-aged steak and a steak that’s just, well, old. Properly dry-aged steaks will smell rich and complex with a hint of funk that’s earthy but appealing. They’ll also be dry to the touch. A rotten steak will be slimy and smell so bad you’ll regret ever opening the bag to check.
Wet-aged Beef
Wet aging is the most common way to age a nice cut of beef, especially in the United States and United Kingdom. It’s less expensive, making the end product more accessible, and it’s closer to the classic beef flavor people associate with a weekday steak.
To create wet-aged beef, producers vacuum seal the meat so that it sits in its own juices for the duration of the aging process. No outside bacteria, oxygen, or flavor components are added nor can any wiggle their way in. The vacuum seal also prevents any beefy goodness from escaping — wet-aged beef comes out of the plastic package the exact size and weight it goes in. That sounds kind of perfect, especially if you’re looking to ensure you get the most bang for your buck and yet still change the steak enough to enjoy its tasty transformation. Vacuum-packed steaks are kept under refrigeration, often in a walk-in fridge or dedicated aging room, for the duration of the aging process. Aging beef requires lots of precision and careful monitoring. In this case, the steaks are usually kept between 28ºF and 35ºF.
Appearance: Wet-aged beef looks a lot like “regular” steak, because it is. These steaks haven’t been affected by air exposure or “good mold,” so the original color and shape should be largely intact. Wet-aged beef is fairly red, with the appropriate amount of marbling based on the specific cut and grade of meat you’re considering purchasing.
Taste: Wet-aged steaks are known for being tender and flavorful. They’re classically beefy, providing a stellar steak experience that’s a perfect match for many different sides, sauces, and cooking techniques.
Tenderness: Wet-age steaks are tender without losing all of their chew. The partial breakdown of the meat’s connective tissue is perfect for anyone who likes a steak that stands up to seasoning and the grill but still breaks down well once it’s cooked and being eaten.
Aging time: Wet-aging beef for between 32 and 48 days produces steaks that are beautifully balanced in terms of both texture and taste.
Is Wet-aged or Dry-aged Beef Better?
It’s not a matter of whether wet-aged or dry-aged is better, but rather which is the best choice for a particular application and your taste buds.
Wet aging takes less time and alters the natural flavor and texture of the beef less while still producing a delicious and enjoyable product. Some consider wet-aged steaks to be more versatile because the beef is less dominant compared to the rich, intense profile associated with dry-aged steaks. But when you want to treat yourself to a special steak that’s boldly flavored and needs little if any enhancement, a dry-aged cut is a shoo-in. You might not want to chop up a dry-aged New York strip steak for stroganoff, but put it on the grill with simple grilled veggies on the side and you have a masterpiece in just minutes.
There are financial considerations as well. Dry-aged meat is more expensive because it’s costlier to produce. Those dry-age rooms are pricey to construct, plus all the steaks take up time, space, and resources as they wait around for the enzymatic process to take place. Producers lose some of the cut’s original weight too, by as much as 50%, meaning a 20-pound primal cut could weigh just 10 pounds by the time the dry-aging process and overall moisture loss is complete. Now the butcher or other sales rep is left with just 10 pounds of meat to recoup the cost of buying and breaking down a much larger cut of beef. Charging a higher price point just makes sense.
What are the Best Cuts of Aged Steak?
You can technically age any cut of steak using either the dry- or wet-aged meat process, but for optimal results, it’s important to match up each steak with the method that’ll bring out the beef’s best qualities.
Dry-aged Steak
Primal cuts are the best cuts to dry age because you’re working with larger pieces of meat that likely still have plenty of bone and fat intact. All that bone and fat helps protect the meat, meaning the “good mold” that grows while dry-aging steak still creates a taste-boosting layer over the beef, but there will be less actual meat to trim away when all is said and done.
When dry-aging individual steaks, it’s best to stick to those that have a higher ratio of fat and bone to meat, for the same reasons mentioned above. Dry-aged bone-in ribeye is nothing short of magnificent, as are sought-after cuts like dry-aged bone-in strip steak, and porterhouses. You’re less likely to see boneless ribeye or delicate filet mignon receiving dry-aged treatment as you’d lose so much volume and possibly even overwhelm the natural flavor of the remaining meat.
Wet-aged Steak
The best piece of meat to wet age are individually cut, pre-portioned steaks that can be wet aged and then sold or cooked and served once ready. Wet aging works on both bone-in and boneless cuts, so you’ll likely love wet-aged boneless strip steak or filet mignon every bit as much as a prime porterhouse or bone-in ribeye — at least as far as aging is concerned. In terms of preparation, wet-aged steaks can be cooked however you prefer. Grill them, pan sear them and finish them in the oven, or pop them in your smoker. The relatively mild flavor profile of wet-aged beef leaves lots of room for spices, rubs, sauces, condiments, and sides, too. Go wild with whatever strikes your fancy. Be bold and serve a juicy double-bone rib roast with spiced plum chutney or stick to classic steakhouse combos like a bacon-wrapped filet with creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin.
Conclusion
There is no right or wrong way to age a steak, assuming each piece of meat is aged under the proper conditions and by expert hands. Chances are, you’ll enjoy both wet- and dry-aged beef, depending on the circumstances and what you plan to cook. Or you may discover that your personal preference leans one way with ribeye steaks and another when you’re preparing a sirloin or prime rib.